Summer vacation 2018- spolier alert: nothing crazy happened. No food poisoning, no rabid dogs, no missed flights or lost wallets. So tame! Except for the sunset cruise…more on that some other time. Let’s start with the most unique spot on our trip, Naxos. This Greek island is very rugged, and not overly touristy.
WHAT TO DO:
Hike: We planned to hike to Halki, a charming small village inland. Here is a map of the route. Our hotel arranged a taxi to drop us off in Ano Potamia, our starting point. It is part of Potamia (translates to river), which is broken into 3 smaller villages- Ano (upper river), Mesi (middle river), and Kato (down river). Ano Potamia is comprised of a tavern, cemetery, church, annnnd that is about it.
My intuition led us the wrong way up a pretty steep hill by some goats and a ferocious-sounding dog nearby. After that wrong turn, we hustled back down the hill and found the correct, clearly marked path right where we were dropped off. Oops. At least there was a nice view from the top of the hill.
The correct path led us through the very small, sleepy village with a rapidly rising elevation. We followed the signs toward Apano Kastro, and could see it small as a speck. This is when Steve questioned my description of “easy, casual walk, not a real hike or anything”.
After he grumbled along for another mile, we were rewarded with an up-close look at the abandoned castle.
The views were spectacular. As far as the eye could see, there was nothing. Just rolling hills and white rocks dotting the landscape.
I think we could have gone inside the ruins, but I heard some jingling as we approached. I was concerned there were some mountain dwellers living there who would not be pleased with us crossing the brick wall.
Turns out they were security goats. Or at least goats wearing bells. I don’t know what happens when you make a goat angry, but wasn’t about to find out!
Anyone know what these onion-like things are growing on the ground? Some were light yellow, others looked charred. There were also stalks growing up out of a few.
After checking out the castle from a distance, we trekked on through the small villages en route to Halki.
I found some photogenic cats along the way.
Oddly, we were the only people on the trail for 90% of the time. I questioned my sense of direction again, but we continued on the path, hoping I hadn’t led us astray. The signs were less than helpful; it was all Greek to me. (I was waiting for an excuse to use that one).
The sights along the way included all sorts of berries, grapevines, flowers, and bees. And shotgun shells. It all seemed safe and serene except for that last detail…
Once we approached Halki, there was a sign for a Byzantine-era church. After hiking all morning, what was another short walk? The Church of Saint George Diasoritis was built in the 11th century, and is only open during July and August. The interior frescoes are still intact, and quite intricate.
After the church discovery, we headed into the village of Halki for a little break and food.
Up first: coffee! Four Tastes is an all outdoor cafe with coffee, crepes, and ice cream. Greek coffee for him, espresso freddo for me. Greek coffee is very similar to Turkish coffee, where the grounds are in the bottom of the cup. Freddo is a delicious iced coffee, with half the coffee blended up with ice. It’s frothy and delicious, and I must try to recreate it at home now.
After resting, hydrating, and caffeinating, onward to lunch! I had read great reviews on Gianni’s Taverna, so we stopped in for an al fresco lunch under the grape vines. I could totally get used to this constant sunshine, never needing to be inside.
The chicken came right off the spit, paired with the freshest tomatoes. Maybe it was the appetite we worked up from hiking, but it was some of the best food I’ve had. All the meals we had in Greece were simple, but so fresh and flavorful. I’m still not sick of Greek salads after coming back and making one almost daily!
At this point, we decided to weigh our transportation options. We could try to find a taxi back to our hotel, or we could navigate the bus system. The next bus was scheduled to leave in about 5 minutes, and required an advance ticket purchase at a store in town. Cue Amy running to find the store before the bus leaves. The shop owner was locking the door to leave for lunch, but thankfully saw my sweaty self sprinting full speed toward her. I got our tickets and raced back to the bus stop, thinking we had 30 seconds until it arrived, we proceeded to wait another 15 minutes for the bus. For once, I was glad everything ran behind schedule in Greece. The bus brought us to the port, where we had to grab another bus back to the beach we stayed near. It took a little longer than a cab, but was significantly cheaper.
Other things to do in Naxos:
At the port, you can see the Portara, an ancient marble doorway looking out toward the water. There’s another castle here, but we did not have enough time to explore the port area.
Vallindras Kitron Distillery: Naxos makes their own liqueur from the citron fruit, which is similar to a lemon. Check out the distillery and sample the goods.
The more popular hike in Naxos takes you to Mount Zeus, which is the highest peak in the Cycladic Islands. We were ready for some relaxation after the sweaty hike with sun beating down on us, so we opted out of this one.
Kouros of Apollonas: We did not visit this either, but it looks fascinating. It is a 35 foot long statue from around the 7th century BC, just lying in an ancient quarry. Tack it on if you have time!
Beaches: On our last day, we walked to the beach closest to our hotel, Agios Prokopios. There are multiple seaside villages on the island, but this was most convenient for us. You really can’t go wrong with water, sunshine, and a nice breeze. There were numerous places to rent chairs, or the option of going to a beach side restaurant that offers free seats with purchase. We paid 8 euros total for 2 chairs and an umbrella. We were able to walk from our hotel, but there was ample parking, and further down the beach was a bus stop. If you’re into water sports, there is a beach closer to the port that is VERY windy and offers kite and wind surfing rentals. Small world: a met a Greek girl in D.C. whose friend owns the windsurfing shop!
WHERE TO EAT:
Everywhere on the beach looked pretty similar, with outdoor seating and plenty of fresh air. Just walk up and down the beach and you’re bound to find something delicious.
Our hotel also had great food. I could not get enough of their Greek yogurt for breakfast!
TRANSPORTATION:
You can get to Naxos via ferry or plane. We arrived by ferry and departed by plane…from what felt like the world’s smallest airport. The waiting area is outside, the bag scanner appeared to be broken, and there was a cat hanging out between the outside and ‘secure’ inside of the airport with the staff. He looked pretty innocent, though. The ferry ride was smooth sailing, and the port in Naxos has a bus stop and taxis waiting nearby.
WHERE TO STAY:
We didn’t find AirBnb options, so we went with a hotel. We stayed at Kavos Boutique Hotel, which is a collection of little bungalow houses, each with a kitchen and outdoor space. The property also has an infinity pool, gym, and poolside restaurant. It felt very resort-like, but small and welcoming. They upgraded us to the honeymoon suite upon arrival, since it wasn’t booked. I think everyone that worked there assumed we were on our honeymoon, so I feel like we got extra special attention. I’ll take it!
The grounds were filled with plants, palm trees, and cats.
Cats seems to gravitate to us, no matter where we are. Of course, the mangiest-looking hotel cat wanted love. He snuck into our bungalow and then jumped onto my lap. Well, at least I am immune to rabies!
Here is a map of all the suggestions I have for Greece. Just zoom in to see Naxos pins. Stay tuned for Santorini and Athens recaps!