Germany has been on my list for quite some time, but just kept getting overshadowed by other destinations.
Thoughts on Berlin:
Tons of street art, easy to navigate, spread-out city with great public transit, and a considerable homeless population and problem with drug addiction. Not really related, but I also found it odd seeing people at 9am sipping a beer…
We really lucked out with weather in Berlin. Perfectly sunny, warm enough to sit outside, but not overheat from walking around all day. I’m sure we could have spent at least another day hitting some key places, but back to reality we must go.
We got suggestions from a German co-worker, a friend who studied abroad, and someone who frequently visits, so we couldn’t possibly eat/drink/see it all. Don’t you worry though, all the recommendations are pinned to the map at the bottom! Here are the highlights of what we did do, or planned to squeeze in.
While exploring the city, I mad it my mission to find my maiden name, Feuerstein, somewhere. I was in luck!
WHAT TO DO:
I find that travel is the absolute best way to learn (or re-learn?) history. As a visual learner, it’s so much more interesting to see things I read about way back in school, but didn’t necessarily retain…
My Berlin history refresher began at the Berlin Wall Memorial. It’s hard to believe this happened in my lifetime.
The Brandenburg Gate: It was built in the late 1700’s to replace an existing city gate and is now one of the most recognizable German landmarks. The design is based on Propylaea, the gate to the Acropolis in Athens, Greece (read about our trip to Athens here!).
The gate has withstood the test of time. After being sprayed with bullets and damaged by explosions during WWII, only one horse head remained intact.
Berlin Cathedral: Our trip coincided with the fire at Notre Dame. I’m very grateful I had the opportunity to see it before, but it was a reminder to never stop exploring. Maybe some day I’ll dig up old photos from that trip to post on here, but it was so long ago I barely remember the details!
We arrived mid-way through a service, so we sat and soaked in the beauty. Incredible domes!
The Berlin Cathedral has a very, very long set of windy stairs to get to the top, but you’re rewarded with a panoramic view of the city.
East Side Gallery: This stretch of the original Berlin Wall is now an outdoor art gallery along the canal. A tourist kiosk does East and West Berlin passport stamps there, if you are into that.
Reichstag: This is where parliament meets. It was set on fire in 1933, then partially refurbished in the 60’s, but not fully restored until 1990. Book a ticket ahead of time and you can go inside the glass dome for a spectacular view of the city.
Just like in D.C., there was a protest going on.
Checkpoint Charlie: This was the most well-known crossing point between East and West Berlin during the Cold War. It’s smaller than I expected, and in the middle of the road that’s in use. It’s a touristy photo opportunity with a more educational piece across the street.
Alexanderplatz: This large square is home to the TV tower, known as Fernsehturm. The tower is the tallest structure in all of Germany, and was constructed in the 60’s as a symbol of communism.
There is a Holocaust museum, as well as memorial, with more information here.
Templehofer Feld: We ran out of time, but wanted to visit the old airport that closed in 2008, and is now used as a city park, and more recently to also house refugees.
If you’re tired of sightseeing, check out the area south of U Rosenthaler Platz for boutique shopping.
WHERE TO EAT:
Breakfast:
Daluma: Acai bowls, smoothies, all the health food trends. Good way to start the day!
My Goodness: This little spot does smoothies, coffee, and delicious bowls. It’s connected to a cycling studio with more seating options. Steve enjoyed the artisanal version of his normal oatmeal peanut butter banana slop.
I really wanted to try Roamers on our last morning, but they are cash only and I wasn’t equipped for that.
Coffee:
So many good options! Move over almond milk. Oat milk is having a moment in Berlin. I’m talking billboards in all the subway stations, baristas with oat milk shirts, and availability at every coffee shop we visited (many with no upcharge!).
Distrikt Coffee: Housed in an old building with exposed brick, comfy couches, communal tables, and great coffee.
Westberlin: Right down the street from Checkpoint Charlie, this coffee spot was full of laptops and ex-pats. The coffee shop is bright and modern with a little book shop in the back.
St. Oberholz: Part co-working space/part bar and coffee shop. Dog friendly inside!
Chapter One: It’s a neighborhood coffee shop near the Airbnb we stayed at known for their fancy coffee, but it is cash only. I wouldn’t make a special trip for it since it’s not near much else, but it hit the spot.
Funk You: Down the street from Commonground and tucked in between a number of fun little shops is this delightful coffee shop. Get the vegan/gluten-free Snickers bar and thank me later.
Lunch:
Hallesches Haus is hidden down an alley with outdoor seating and a sunny indoor space. They have both meat lovers and vegans covered. Connected to the cafe is a little boutique.
Commonground is a very hip restaurant/bar/coffee spot with an interior courtyard complete with a koi pond.
There are a number of food halls/markets, but we only made it to the local Marheineke Markthalle by our Airbnb before our flight. Markthalle IX was also recommended to us.
Dinner:
Cocolo Ramen: There are two locations, and we went to the one in Kreuzberg on the water. The line was out the door on a Tuesday night, but well worth the wait and the line moved quick. Get the homemade honey ginger lemonade!
Katz Orange: It was jam packed on a Monday night, but without reservations we were able to get a seat at the bar. Goose fat fries were certainly a treat I don’t normally indulge in, but well worth it. Great ambiance and beautiful patio for a warmer night. You could easily walk right by since it’s tucked away in a courtyard.
Other food suggestions: Brlo, Curry 36 for authentic currywurst, Kimchi Princess, or stroll down Kastanienallee and visit wine bars where you pay 1 euro for a glass on weekdays, drink to your heart’s content, and then you pay what you think it was worth.
TIPS:
Some places are cash only, so come prepared.
I felt completely safe, but do be aware of the people lingering in subway stations.
Germans don’t care if it’s a little cold. The sun is shining, so sit outside and wrap up in a blanket or order a hot drink! They really maximize patio time and I love it!
Free Wi-Fi is prevalent. T-Mobile free International data moves at a snail’s pace, but does work.
Some tourist bathrooms charge a fee. Be prepared with 50 cents!
It’s hard to say where to stay, since the city is so big. We were very pleased with our simple Airbnb by Kreuzberg. It was right next to a subway stop and in a quieter residential area. The price couldn’t be beat at 57 euros a night. No frills, but it did the job.
TRANSPORTATION:
Public transportstion system is excellent. A full day, unlimited day pass is 7 euros, and can be used in subway, bus, and tram. Trains run every 1-3 minutes. It’s almost like the honors system- buy a ticket, stick it in the validation machine and go. No turnstiles, no station guards, nothing. Only one time did we see a ticket checker step on to a train to scan tickets. Funny timing, as earlier the same day we overheard a British guy saying he owed a 60 € fee for not having the right ticket on him. So, be honest and get the proper ticket!
Also, dogs are allowed in the subway system. Dogs everywhere! Zero outdoor cat sightings.
We flew into Schoenefeld airport and out of Tegel, and it was very simple to get to and from on the bus/subway. Something I have never seen before: at Tegel, you can walk from outside and be at your gate in 30 seconds. You scan your passport and ticket at the actual boarding gate area, then proceed to security with only the people on your flight. It wasn’t the fanciest airport by any means, but we got to our gate in record time.
There are plenty of bike lanes and we spotted a number of bike share companies around.
Map of Berlin highlights here!
London, our first leg of the trip, recapped here!